Dickies 874 Original Fit vs. 874 Flex: What’s the Difference?

The Dickies 874 is the most recognizable work pant ever made, and it now comes in two versions that look identical on the shelf: the Original 874 and the 874 Flex. Both have the same fit and the same details. The difference is entirely in the fabric, and that changes how the pant feels on day one and how it moves.

What they have in common

• Fit: the classic 874 cut. Relaxed through the seat and thigh, straight leg, sits at the natural waist.
• Fabric blend: 65% polyester / 35% cotton twill on both.
• Details: permanent crease down the leg, hook-and-eye waist closure with a zip fly, slash front pockets, welt back pockets.
• Finish: wrinkle-resistant and stain-release treated so they look pressed straight out of the dryer.

Original 874: the heavier, stiffer classic

The Original is cut from an 8.5 oz twill with no stretch. New out of the package it is noticeably stiff and holds a sharp crease. That structure is why skaters, painters and anyone who wants the vintage Dickies look reach for it. It softens with washing but never gets flimsy, and it takes years of abuse.

• Best for: a sharp, structured look; heavy wear; anyone who wants the pant that started it all.
• Trade-off: less give when you squat, climb or ride. Expect a short break-in period.

874 Flex: same look, built to move

The Flex uses a slightly lighter 8.2 oz twill woven with mechanical stretch. There is no spandex in it; the stretch comes from how the yarn is spun and woven, so it keeps the same matte twill face and the same polyester/cotton blend. The result is a pant that feels soft right off the hanger and gives a little at the knee and seat without bagging out.

• Best for: all-day work on your feet, driving, kneeling, or anyone who found the Original too stiff.
• Trade-off: the crease and the “boardy” structure are a touch softer than the Original.

Side by side

Sizing: both fit the same

Dickies 874s are sized by waist and inseam, for example 32x30. Because the cut is relaxed, most people wear their true waist size. If you are between sizes, the Flex forgives a snug waist better than the Original. Both come in regular and big sizes, and we stock a deep run of waist and length combinations in store.

Which one should you buy?

Pick the Original if you want the authentic, structured Dickies look and do not mind a break-in. Pick the Flex if you are on your feet all day or you simply want the 874 look with more comfort. Either way, you can try both on at Jeans Plus on Blossom Hill Road and feel the difference yourself.